TAIPEI (Taiwan News) — High-end Japanese restaurant Chen Sushi has unveiled its new summer omakase menu, featuring a rhythmic progression of seasonal seafood crafted by twin chefs Yang Shi-an (楊世安) and Yang Shi-yu (楊世宇).
Backed by 13 years of culinary experience, Yang Shi-an — the restaurant's new head chef — honed his craft during a four-year stint at Taipei’s Michelin-starred Sushi Amamoto. His culinary philosophy centers on "flavor design," a meticulous approach ensuring that the fish, rice, temperature, and texture harmonize within the first three seconds of a bite.
To achieve this balance, the culinary team sources Hokkaido’s premier Yumepirika and Nanatsuboshi rice, prized for its plump texture and subtle sweetness.
The team pair these premium grains with either a robust red vinegar or a mild white rice vinegar to complement the fat profile of each fish.
For example, the striped jack sushi is served with white rice vinegar to highlight its clean, slightly crunchy texture, while the splendid alfonsino is accented with a touch of yuzu zest.
The meal opens with light, temperature-contrasting appetizers. Hokkaido surf clam is seared over binchotan charcoal and paired with white asparagus, fig, and apple vinegar.
It is followed by a silky cold egg custard topped with crispy deep-fried whitebait and a rich green nori sauce, offering a delicate interplay of textures. The menu’s centerpiece is the highly labor-intensive eel kettle rice.
According to chef Yang Shi-yu, the dish is a rarity in Taipei's competitive dining scene due to its arduous preparation. Yang said that the eel is first steamed, then grilled, after which chefs hand-strip the skin to deep-fry it for maximum crispness, while the meat is slow-cooked in a rich kabayaki glaze.
The most demanding step requires chefs to use surgical scissors to meticulously snip away every pin bone.
The new menu is priced at NT$6,000 (US$185) per person, plus a 10% service charge.
Chen Sushi debuts new menu. (Taiwan News, Lyla Liu video)
