TAIPEI (Taiwan News) — Taiwan’s competitive premium yakitori market has witnessed a major upgrade following Taipei Toriki’s introduction of a newly developed poultry breed.
Sakai Yasuhito, the president of Tokyo’s one-Michelin-starred Toriki, recently visited Taipei to unveil "Zhi Yu Jin Jing" chicken. Developed over three years in partnership with a specialized farm, the custom breed is exclusive to the Taipei restaurant.
Sakai, the first chef to win a Michelin star for yakitori, maintains a strict philosophy focused on pure flavor. Unlike conventional yakitori joints, Taipei Toriki is devoid of heavy smoke.
Sakai insists on suspending skewers over binchotan charcoal at an extremely close proximity.
At the grill, Sakai turns skewers with his right hand while operating a custom-made bamboo fan with his left. Handcrafted from a single piece of bamboo, the fan is a tool of precision. Moving the fan expels ash and regulates heat while channeling smoke toward the ventilation system.
"The fan locks the freshest juices inside the meat," Sakai said, noting that he deliberately avoids heavy smoke to prevent numbing diners' palates.
By extending the birds' breeding period by two weeks, the chicken has an increase in clean subcutaneous fat. Sakai describes the meat as having a richer aroma, layered juices, and a delicate texture.
Confident in the meat’s quality, Sakai seasons the skewers exclusively with salt, eschewing complex sauces.
The updated 14-course meal also incorporates duck, a rarity even in top-tier Japanese yakitori establishments. Inspired by the interactive spirit of kaiseki dining, Sakai features a duck breast skewer as a seasonal highlight.
To counter the low melting point of duck fat, the meat is thickly sliced, skewered into a fan shape, and constantly rotated over high heat to ensure a crispy exterior and tender center.
The dining experience begins with a comforting chicken soup slow-cooked for six hours and a refreshing sake-steamed chicken neck with crystal broth jelly. The progression of dishes transitions from light to rich flavors, showcasing technically demanding skewers like wasabi breast, layered thigh meat, tight-textured neck meat, and juicy chicken heart.
The signature wing skewer highlights Sakai’s meticulous technique: deboned through a unique cutting method, it allows diners to enjoy the crisp skin and succulent meat effortlessly.
Interspersed with seasonal Japanese wild yam and baby corn, the dinner concludes with a dual-style grilled rice ball and a classic caramel pudding.
Taipei Toriki unveils new menu. (Taiwan News, Lyla Liu video)
