TAIPEI (Taiwan News) — Chef Okuchi Taichi of Michelin-starred Sushi Kajin in Taipei is redefining Edomae sushi through a philosophy of precision and constant refinement.
In a hushed corner of the Songjiang Nanjing district, Okuchi meticulously shapes an 8-gram orb of vinegared rice. A descendant of an Iwate Prefecture sushi dynasty and a veteran of Kyoto’s Michelin-starred restaurants, Okuchi secured a star for Sushi Kajin in the 2025 Michelin Guide Taiwan within a year of the restaurant's debut.
The restaurant was founded by Powerchip Semiconductor Manufacturing Corporation CEO Frank Huang (黃崇仁), whose vision was to bridge the gap in Taiwan’s high-end dining scene.
"While Taiwan has many Japanese restaurants, few feature a resident Japanese Michelin-starred chef," Huang said. "We are honored to have Chef Okuchi here to provide the most authentic Edomae sushi experience in Taipei."
"Edomae sushi appears simple, yet it is unfathomably deep," Okuchi said. In the two critical months leading up to the Michelin evaluation, Okuchi dismantled and re-examined every detail.
In Okuchi’s philosophy, the sushi rice is a more demanding master than the fish itself.
This "golden" rice is a product of technical precision. Okuchi uses a specialized rice cooker imported from Japan to steam a blend of Sasanishiki rice from Toyama and Koshihikari rice from Niigata.
The Sasanishiki provides a structured, grain-by-grain mouthfeel, while the Koshihikari adds a subtle, honeyed stickiness.
The hydration and seasoning are equally deliberate. He uses mineral water from Hita City, Oita, and mineral-rich sea salt from Okinawa. A four-vinegar blend, featuring Gifu red vinegar and Mizkan Shirakiku, yields a profile that is bracing yet elegant.
Okuchi adheres to the Kyoto tradition of omitting sugar, relying instead on precise salinity to highlight the grain’s natural sweetness. "I adjust water ratios and timing in real-time based on ambient humidity," he said. He reverse-engineers his cooking schedule to ensure the rice is served within a 40-minute peak window after the vinegar is folded in.
Okuchi’s winter menu demonstrates a mastery over time and temperature. Key highlights include female snow crab, served with a warm bonito dashi glaze, and monkfish liver simmered in light soy to a silk-like consistency.
His aging process is particularly rigorous. Tuna is aged for 10 days to intensify its umami before being paired with rice served at precisely 36 degrees Celsius.
"Sushi is a pursuit of purity, but the challenge lies in capturing the fleeting nature of the seasons," Okuchi said. "A fish may only be at its peak for two weeks; my role is to capture that moment for the guest."
As 2026 begins, Okuchi is pivoting from individual artistry toward brand stewardship. He is currently re-engineering his team’s culture to maintain the tranquil, focused atmosphere characteristic of Japan’s most elite sushi dens.
He is also mentoring local talent to ensure his technical standards become a permanent brand asset.
"The goal is longevity," he says. "I want to build a destination where the excellence of the experience is the draw, regardless of whether I am personally behind the counter."
The restaurant offers a 15-course lunch menu for NT$6,000 (US$185) and a 20-course dinner menu for NT$10,000.
(Taiwan News, Lyla Liu video)
