KAOHSIUNG (Taiwan News) – Only the rare few achieve perfection in both the kitchen and the dining room.
This year, Kaohsiung has witnessed one of the most stunning debuts in its culinary history: The Front House (方蒔), which opened in 2023, not only clinched its first prestigious Michelin Star but also earned the highly sought-after Service Award.
The recognition is testament to two decades of professional synergy and trust between Executive Chef Tsai Chung-han (蔡中和) and Restaurant Manager and Sommelier Chen Yu-chi (陳玉錡). The formidable couple command both the plate and the service floor.
As the weather shifts, The Front House presents its latest seasonal offerings. The new set menu is a study in pushing flavor boundaries, perfectly complemented by a front-of-house philosophy dedicated to the highest form of “invisible service.”
A native of Kaohsiung, Tsai excels at weaving his extensive background in French haute cuisine with the distinct terroir and culinary memories of southern Taiwan.
The autumn menu highlights this approach, featuring premium local ingredients like Chiayi white goose liver, Penghu greater amberjack, and Nantou ruby chicken. These are fused with traditional regional flavours such as Hakka preserved mustard greens and aged pickled radish.
Tsai operates with the spirit of an experimentalist, believing that culinary growth demands a constant challenge to the status quo. He recalled an early attempt to merge his hometown’s soy milk tofu pudding with king crab — a dish Chen famously dismissed as "like vomit." Yet, these relentless tests are precisely how he uncovers genuine flavor breakthroughs.
A key focus of this menu is the sophisticated redefinition of humble, local ingredients. By boldly pairing the common preserved mustard greens with top-tier components such as acorn-fed Iberian pork shoulder and luxurious 48-month aged ham, Tsai seeks to elevate the perceived value of these classic Taiwanese flavors for the modern diner.
Tsai meticulously ensures every pairing is driven by logic. For instance, the savory, fermented depth of the preserved mustard greens is balanced by the umami of red miso and the brightness of pumpkin, creating complex autumnal layers.
For the Oushu Wagyu New York Strip, he uses Mediterranean accents and the warmth of aged tangerine peel. The essential acidity from capers, anchovies, and Roselle port wine sauce cuts through the rich Wagyu fat, resulting in a perfectly balanced dish that is both rich and a pleasure to finish.
Chen, attributes her Service Award win to a philosophy she calls “invisible service.”
She aims to never overly intrude, instead employing high-sensitivity observation to gauge guest needs instantly, noting details like a subtle glance, a dominant hand preference, or even uneaten leaves on a plate. This information is immediately relayed to the kitchen to tailor the preparation of subsequent courses.
Chen’s team functions as masters of contingency. It seamlessly handles unexpected demands, from sudden severe gluten intolerance to last-minute birthday celebrations. This unflappable confidence is rooted in the strong trust the couple has forged.
Chen said that early in their partnership, internal disagreements between the front and back of house were common. As a result, they adopted an “us vs. the problem” mentality, prioritizing mutual trust and empathy.
Their simple rule for any guest request or complaint is: "Regardless of who is technically right or wrong, resolve the issue immediately."
Tsai champions this guest-first approach, stating that while a chef maintains standards, the guest's needs are ultimately paramount. For example, even if Tsai prefers a rarer cut, a request for well-done beef must be honored, as it might be due to health considerations.
"Give them what they want. Satisfaction is all that matters," Tsai believes. This deep-seated empathy, which places the guest experience above professional dogma, is the defining factor that allowed The Front House to secure both the Michelin star and the Service Award.
