TAIPEI (Taiwan News) – Taipei's fine dining scene welcomes a fresh perspective as Brise (formerly Akin) unveils its new identity and a vibrant summer menu, spearheaded by Chef Chiang Pili (江丕禮), a rising culinary talent at 35.
Chef Pili said his goal is not to deliberately disrupt tradition, but to uncover new possibilities within familiar techniques and flavors, reassembling them into his own distinct culinary language.
Brise's latest summer menu is surprisingly light and clean, like a gentle breeze on a midsummer's day. It draws inspiration from Chef Pili's unique vision of Taiwanese summer, incorporating local seasonal seafood, fruits, and vegetables inspired by forests and oceans.
By infusing the changing seasons into his culinary philosophy, he reinterprets classics, emphasizing that only by loosening existing frameworks can flavors flow freely. This approach aims to immerse guests in Brise's seasonal style, balancing culinary origins with innovative design, creating a unique summer experience.
Born and raised in Taipei in 1990, Chef Pili's early fascination with disassembling and reassembling parts, honed through auto mechanics, found an unexpected new home in the kitchen. Drawn by his mother's home cooking and the vibrant energy of local markets, he traded the cold logic of machinery for the warm, sensory world of cuisine.
"Cooking, like mechanics, demands structure and precision, but it adds an unquantifiable layer of emotion and warmth," explained Chef Pili.
After military service, Chef Pili trained at an Italian restaurant under Chef Angelo Agliano, then spent five years at Robuchon Taipei, where he refined his French culinary expertise and rose to sous chef. He later served as head chef at le beaujour, bringing his sophisticated French techniques to Brise.
A highlight of the new menu, and a profoundly significant dish for Chef Pili, is Original, his reinterpretation of an octopus dish. This creation holds the key to his culinary awakening.
He said that the inspiration struck early in his career during his time at an Italian restaurant in Taipei. His first mentor taught him a Sicilian-style octopus dish whose remarkably tender texture and sweet flavor revolutionized his perception of octopus. This pivotal experience not only taught him essential skills but, crucially, inspired him to think creatively.
After a decade, Chef Pili reintroduces this meaningful octopus dish in Brise's debut menu, presenting it as a personal introduction to his culinary journey.
Inspired by octopus with sweet peppers, it features Penghu octopus gently braised, then pan-seared, served with Italian peperonata and romesco, garnished with prickly ash ink crisps, pine nuts, and basil oil, evoking a warm, fresh Mediterranean summer.
The chef aims to convey this original wonder and genuine emotion, believing that excellent cuisine does not over-embellish, but showcases the true essence of ingredients.
Chef Pili emphasizes that his summer menu design integrates seasonal ingredients with his vision of a Taiwanese summer. Octopus, as a seasonal ingredient, naturally became a centerpiece. Through this dish, he hopes guests at Brise will connect with his culinary style.
The Brise summer menu takes guests on a journey from dawn to dusk. It begins with three appetizers: guava spheres, smoked cured meat, and pistachio ricotta. The cold appetizer, Verdance, pairs cucumber and green grapes with Guishan Island scarlet shrimp.
The main course, Meadow Path, features tender veal ribeye with refreshing herbal notes. The meal concludes with a pre-dessert, Clarity, a sparkling peach sphere, and the main dessert, Serenity, with mango and osmanthus.
Brise's new summer menu, which launched in July, offers a 6-course weekday lunch set at NT$2,680 (US$92), and a 9−course dinner and holiday lunch set at NT$3,880.
(Taiwan News, Lyla Liu video)
