TAIPEI (Taiwan News) – At Taipei’s Michelin-starred restaurant De Nuit, Chef Kei Koo (古俊基) crafts an autumn-winter menu that mirrors the delicate beauty of Monet's water lilies, presenting contemporary French cuisine with exquisite elegance.
Having honed his craft at Hong Kong's two Michelin-starred restaurant Amber and Taipei’s one Michelin-starred T+T, Koo brings a unique perspective to De Nuit. His philosophy centers on creating dishes both visually stunning and tastefully balanced.
"I aim for clean, elegant flavors that are layered, not overly complex," explained Koo. "Each dish appears simple but requires immense skill," capturing his philosophy at De Nuit where elegant innovation meets refined warmth.
Koo's dedication to seasonal ingredients is evident in his autumn-winter menu. The menu features a symphony of seafood, including oysters, snow crab, and eel, prepared with the utmost care and precision.
To ensure the highest quality, Koo sources ingredients directly from Daxi fishing port. "The key to exceptional seafood lies in immediate preservation," said Koo. This commitment to quality is reflected in every dish, from the innovative cheung fun (腸粉), inspired by Hong Kong flavors, to the delicate black-bone chicken soup.
The main courses are equally impressive. The New Zealand Lumina lamb rib, seasoned with Moroccan spices, is a testament to Koo's culinary prowess. The tender meat is complemented by a medley of flavors, including lamb fat, harissa sauce, and native Taiwanese pepper leaves.
Another main dish combines pan-seared wagyu with rich bone marrow, bringing warmth to Taipei's cool weather, accompanied by braised vegetables and crispy breadcrumbs. Fresh horseradish foam sauce complements the classic Bordeaux sauce made with port and Madeira wines, while kombu-cured raw wagyu, black garlic sauce, and pickled romaine add complex layers of flavor.
The dessert menu is equally enticing. The dragon fruit and roselle offer a refreshing palate cleanser, while the bon bon inspired by Hong Kong-style osmanthus poached pear is a delightful surprise.
As Koo prepares for the next season, he continues to push the boundaries of culinary creativity. Although guests praise the current menu, this perfectionist chef believes “it can be even better,” hinting at the inclusion of rabbit for next season.
(Taiwan News, Lyla Liu video)
