TAIPEI (Taiwan News) – Chef Lam Ming Kin's (林明健) new restaurant AKIN recently debuted a seven-course "Refresh" weekend lunch menu for spring.
This more relaxed option, priced at NT$5,880 (US$180) per person, allows diners to experience Kin's culinary artistry in a less formal setting compared to the 12-course dinner menu, while still maintaining the high quality and meticulousness expected from fine dining.
AKIN opened in 2023 and is known for its low-key yet luxurious dining experience focusing on seasonal ingredients and innovative techniques.
The name "AKIN" translates to "natural ally" in Chinese, reflecting Kin's approach to cooking. He draws inspiration from his extensive culinary background, honed over 20 years in Hong Kong, Shanghai, Paris, New York, and Taiwan.
Kin's childhood memories in Hong Kong, love for Japanese flavors, passion for Southeast Asian cuisine, and affection for his adopted home of Taiwan all come together to create a unique menu.
The first course, "White Asparagus, Fermented Strawberries, Osetra Caviar," highlights the delicate sweetness of spring asparagus with a touch of acidity from fermented strawberries. Rich Osetra Caviar adds a burst of briny umami, while the creamy carmine shrimp base ties all the elements together.
Another standout dish is the hairy crab chawanmushi. This Japanese steamed egg custard is infused with the subtle yet comforting flavors of laksa, a Southeast Asian noodle soup, while cilantro and laksa oil provide a fragrant counterpoint.
The kinmedai, a popular Japanese fish, is deep-fried to a perfect medium-rare which retains its delicate texture and boasts a light, crispy tempura-like coating. A sprinkle of Sichuan pepper powder adds a subtle numbing sensation, while a side of olive tartare sauce, pickled ginger, Vietnamese purple basil, and celery leaves offers a symphony of flavors and textures to complement the fish.
The main course, "Australian Wagyu Char Siu, Black Garlic, Mexican Tomatillo," showcases Kin's ability to blend culinary influences seamlessly. Australian M9 Wagyu beef is marinated in a traditional Hong Kong-style char siu sauce infused with black garlic for a deep, complex flavor.
The bed of rice is infused with lardo made from Japanese A5 Wagyu, which replaces traditional Jinhua ham. Lemon leaf peanuts, bamboo shoots, and Chinese greens add color and texture, making this dish a feast for all five senses.
In a departure from traditional French fine dining, the restaurant forgoes the cheese plate for a more playful and palate-cleansing dessert. A delicate donut with French Auvergne blue cheese cream and mulberry jam is coated with chopped walnuts.
The interior design of the dining space draws inspiration from caves featuring a muted color palette with natural elements like wood, rock, and moss. The traditional white tablecloths of fine dining are replaced by a Japanese-style counter seating arrangement, bringing diners closer to the action in the open kitchen.
The U-shaped counter seats 16 guests, offering a front-row seat to Kin's culinary artistry. Wide tables ensure a comfortable dining experience, allowing guests to fully immerse themselves in the multi-sensory feast presented before them.
