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Burgundys from 2005 are a great crop for red, white wines

Burgundys from 2005 are a great crop for red, white wines

French wine producers are sounding very pleased with themselves over their 2005 Burgundys, both white and red - the current vintage in shops.
It was a warm year, an early harvest, with milder acids, more ripe-fruit flavors than the leaner, floral scents of cooler years. Lush, but not so lush as to mask the mineral complexity that is Burgundy's trademark.
In cool Burgundy, where the biggest hazard is that fall rains will arrive before the grapes are fully ripe, it's their favorite kind of year - riper, but not so ripe that wines turn into flabby "fruit bombs." (Those years are called "California vintages," and it's not meant as a compliment.)
There's no better wine in the world than a good Burgundy. The whites are opulent but not over-the-top, with complex aromas and flavors from white flowers to hazelnuts. Unlike most whites, these can benefit from age. A fine Burgundy with 10 or 12 years on it can show off all the aromas and flavors above, changing with every sip as it warms.
Burgundy's reds are equally complex, with pure fruit and mineral flavors in their youth, mellowing into subtle and complex flavors of dried roses, mushrooms, even that elusive quality that we overwrought wine fans delicately describe as "barnyardy."
When well-aged, the whites are for such complex flavors as lobster pot pie, made with cream, butter and sherry; the reds are for dishes such as boeuf bourguignon or coq au vin.
With these, plan the meal around the wine, not vice versa. And choose your guests carefully.
Here are tasting notes from two top Burgundy houses: Joseph Drouhin and Domaine Faiveley.
2005 Joseph Drouhin Saint-Veran, AOC Saint-Veran (chardonnay): fresh, crisp and lively, with white-flower aromas and flavors of lemons and limes; US$14.
2005 Domaine Faiveley Chablis "Les Clos" Grand Cru, AOC Chablis (chardonnay): steely and firm, with chalky flavors and hints of lush citrus and white peaches; long finish; US$88.
2005 Joseph Drouhin Beaune "Clos de Mouches" Blanc, AOC Beaune, Premier Cru (chardonnay): complex, shifting aromas and flavors of vanilla, candied fruit and hazelnuts; full and generous; very long finish; US$97.
2005 Joseph Drouhin Gevrey-Chambertin, AOC Gevrey-Chambertin (Cote de Nuits) (pinot noir): aromas and flavors of black cherries, cinnamon and bitter chocolate; full-bodied, smooth, opulent; long finish; US$46.
2005 Joseph Drouhin Puligny-Montrachet, AOC Puligny-Montrachet (chardonnay): soft and smooth, with aromas and flavors of white peaches, apricots and citrus; US$51.
2005 Domaine Faiveley Chablis "Beauroy" Premier Cru, AOC Chablis (chardonnay): steely and crisp, with hints of candied lemon; powerful; long finish; US$39.
2005 Maison Faiveley "Joseph Faiveley" Bourgogne Rouge Pinot Noir, AOC Bourgogne: aromas of oak and black cherries; flavors of cherries and cranberries; crisp and lively; US$20.
2005 Vero Pinot Noir, by Joseph Drouhin, AOC Burgundy: light and lively, with intense flavors of black cherries, black raspberries and spice; US$20.
2005 Joseph Drouhin Chorey-Les Beaune, AOC Chorey-Les-Beaune (pinot noir): light-bodied, with zingy acid, a hint of tannin and tart cherry flavors; US$24.


Updated : 2021-04-23 08:12 GMT+08:00